I tried tamales for the first time and it was a great experience! We purchased them from a man who sells nearly 400 tamales each afternoon on the street corner. Our professors explained that the value of the tamale is found in the large amount of time that families spend making the tamales together. It is amazing how the food of a particular place can provide so much insight into the way of life of the people who make it.
Este es el hombre que produce los tamales en su casa y los venden en la calle.
Estos son los tamales que están hechos de una masa de maíz y están llenados de pollo.
The contrast between the highly commercialized archaeological site of Chichén Itzá and the much smaller and less visited ruins of Yaxunah is incredible. We visited both sites today and the each one had similar motives: to preserve mayan ruins and to bring awareness to mayan culture. However, these goals were accomplished in very different ways.
Chichén Itzá
Chichén Itzá was historically one of the largest Mayan cities. It is comprised of a variety of temples, churches, observatories and other structures.
Plaza de las Mil Columnas
The ability of the Mayans to construct hundreds of nearly identical columns is unbelievable. Each pillar is carved from stone and is similar in size and stature. How remarkable it is that such precise measurements could be constructed as early as 600 AD, in the Late Classic Period, although tools and resources were minimal.
El turismo y comercialización
As we arrived to Chichén Itzá there was no doubt that we were entering one of the most highly visited archaeological sites in Mexico. The front steps leading to the entrance of the site were filled with tourists of countless nationalities. Vendors lined the entryway selling hats, magnets, blankets, wood carvings, and so much more. After taking only 5 steps out of the van, we were surrounded by men and women saying, “amigo, compra un sombrero. Son muy baratos.” It was clear that tourism was at the forefront of Chichén Itzá.
To my surprise this bombardment of vendors selling “authentic” mayan products did not stop when we entered the archaeological site. Every walkway was filled with vendors selling similar products. They shouted phrases such as, “cheaper than Walmart,” “buy for your boyfriend,” “almost free,” and many others.
To me, the vendors were a distraction from the beauty of the ruins. It was clear that the intent was to preserve the Mayan culture; however, the commercialization of this site seemed to detract from viewers’ ability to appreciate the splendor of the ruins around them.
Yaxuna
Yaxuna is a Mayan community located 60 km from Valladolid; we visited it shortly after our exploring Chichén Itzá. Yaxuna was built in 700 B.C. and the Mayans believe it to be the first city where the Mayan priests gathered to perform their rituals to their gods such as Xoc. 9,000 people once lived in this community where 776 structures have been discovered over time.
Las rituales antiguas de los mayas
The most admirable part of the Mayan community was the deep spiritual connection that was prevalent in the ceremonies and rituals. We were first exposed to the common Mayan ritual,juego de pelota. Before entering the sacred arena, we were purified with incense and the priest recited a blessing over us. Juego de pelota was a game often played for hours on end. Each player used their hips to attempt to hit a large rubber ball into the rings positioned overhead in the arena. The men at Yaxuna were adorned in traditional body painting and reenacted a portion of this game.
Dando gracias a los dioses
Next we observed a ceremony that gave thanks to the gods of the earth. We had the chance to share in the drinking of a traditional Mayan drink, Saka, that was prepared with corn and honey and blessed before the gods before we partook of it.
Las danzas tradicionales
The photos above depict portions of the traditional Mayan dances that were performed to bring honor the gods of the earth. Feel free to watch a portion of the dance ritual followed by an explanation of this ritual (in Spanish).
Las ruinas
As previously stated, there are 776 structures that are believed to be at the Yaxuna archeological site. Many of the ruins have yet to be uncovered from the forests that surround them. We explored many of the ruins that have been uncovered and most notably the Sacbe, meaning “white path.” This path aligns with the stones in the image below, and it is believed that on the 20th of march each year, the moon will align with the center stone. This signifies the beginning of the planting season and the rituals such as those mentioned above will begin in order to thank the gods for the harvest to come.
A resultado de mis conversaciones con nuestro guía, José, realiza que las diferencias regionales que existen en un país son muy similares en México y en los Estados Unidos. En los Estados Unidos por ejemplo tenemos 50 estados diferentes y la clima, la comida, y el trabajo es muy distinto. Y en una manera similar, México está dividido en 31 estados distintos y cada uno tiene propiedades específicos como sus trabajos, el ambiente, la seguridad, y mucho más. Me interesa mucho ver como los Estados Unidos y México están tan similares.
Cuando no sabes mucho sobre un país, es fácil creer que todo en un país es el mismo. Obtenemos una perspectiva de un lugar como México y la aplicamos al país entero. Pero no es justo que hagamos este. Cada región tiene su propia manera de vida y hay aspectos que crean la cultura de un región como la peninsula de Yucatán. Espero con ansias descubrir aspectos específicos de Yucatán que contribuyen al cultura Mexicana.
Over the past two days I have observed that the trees here are not as tall as the coniferous trees of Virginia. The dense forests of the Yucatán are comprised of small trees that grow up through the dry, stony soil. It can be difficult to manage the growth of trees here as they are embedded into the rocky soil. When we inquired why the trees lack height, we were told that the trees grow downward rather than upwards. I was skeptical of this theory initially; however, it seems that the trees’ roots extend deep into the ground in order to find water in the dry climate. This was particularly evident in the trees surround the Cenote X’Canché. The trees roots extended several meters below ground and we were able to see this as the roots were exposed in the “cenote,” or sinkhole, that was draped with tree roots.
This morning I enjoyed an amazing breakfast at the hotel. The meal began with a fruit salad containing papaya which I had never tried before. We were served a delicious cup of pineapple juice made with honey as well. There were a variety of breads served with fruit marmalade and I also tried chilaquiles (chips with a green Chile sauce, cream, and cheese).
Ensalada de fruta con yogur y granola
Chilaquiles
The most notable aspect of the meal was the large amount of time spent at the table conversing, and enjoying the food. “Sobremesa” or “over the table” is the Spanish tradition of spending time at the table after sharing a meal without getting up or hurrying to do the dishes or continue on with the day. This mentality greatly contrasts that of American society. We are constantly in a rush to get back to work or to progress to the next task on our to do list and we lose sight of the importance of just being with other people.
The pace of life here is different overall. The most notable difference is the perception of time. There appears to be little rush to get from place to place or to eat at a particular time of the day. I anticipated that we would receive a detailed itinerary for the trip outlining the times at which we would be going places, but the culture here is very relaxed and a schedule such as this really isn’t necessary. There appears to be more flexibility here which is extremely freeing, certainly a change for the better. I am excited to continue to immerse myself in this culture that values time together and does not let time control their lives.
We had the opportunity to visit an agave distillery. We learned how the agave is grown for about 7 years and then the “pineapple.” or large build of the plant that is below the ground, is harvested. Then the fiber of the leaves goes through a distillation process in order to retrieve the liquid from the plant and to ultimately produce tequila.
The natural beauty of the cenote was breathtaking. I am in awe of the world that we live in. My appreciation of the natural world is beginning to increase as I admire the beauty of creation.
The way we were able to directly engage with the environment through swimming in the cenote, reminded me a lot of Mayan culture and how nature was seamlessly woven into their everyday lives.
Ek Balam is an amazing archeological sight containing various mayan ruins that were in use from the preclassic period until the late post classic period. I found it interesting that the pyramids were not all built at once. As each king came to power, they would add additional levels to the temples.
I was amazed by the span of jungle that we were able to see from the top of the ruins. The jungle stretches farther than we could even see from the top of the ruins that reach nearly 9 stories tall.
I cannot explain how stunning the our hotel is in Valladolid. We are staying at Casa Quetzal, and the images on the website surely did not do it justice. I am in awe of the natural beauty that encompasses the center and border of the hotel. The rooms center around a pool and garden and feel as though they are a part of the natural surroundings. The interior design of the rooms reflects the Mexican culture and style and I am looking forward to learning more about the weavings and art that are prevalent in this hotel. I am amazed by the familial feel of this hotel and the warm, hospitable receptionist who is overseeing it.
Aventuras en la península de Yucatán 