The contrast between the highly commercialized archaeological site of Chichén Itzá and the much smaller and less visited ruins of Yaxunah is incredible. We visited both sites today and the each one had similar motives: to preserve mayan ruins and to bring awareness to mayan culture. However, these goals were accomplished in very different ways.
Chichén Itzá
Chichén Itzá was historically one of the largest Mayan cities. It is comprised of a variety of temples, churches, observatories and other structures.
Plaza de las Mil Columnas
The ability of the Mayans to construct hundreds of nearly identical columns is unbelievable. Each pillar is carved from stone and is similar in size and stature. How remarkable it is that such precise measurements could be constructed as early as 600 AD, in the Late Classic Period, although tools and resources were minimal.
El turismo y comercialización
As we arrived to Chichén Itzá there was no doubt that we were entering one of the most highly visited archaeological sites in Mexico. The front steps leading to the entrance of the site were filled with tourists of countless nationalities. Vendors lined the entryway selling hats, magnets, blankets, wood carvings, and so much more. After taking only 5 steps out of the van, we were surrounded by men and women saying, “amigo, compra un sombrero. Son muy baratos.” It was clear that tourism was at the forefront of Chichén Itzá.
To my surprise this bombardment of vendors selling “authentic” mayan products did not stop when we entered the archaeological site. Every walkway was filled with vendors selling similar products. They shouted phrases such as, “cheaper than Walmart,” “buy for your boyfriend,” “almost free,” and many others.
To me, the vendors were a distraction from the beauty of the ruins. It was clear that the intent was to preserve the Mayan culture; however, the commercialization of this site seemed to detract from viewers’ ability to appreciate the splendor of the ruins around them.
Yaxuna
Yaxuna is a Mayan community located 60 km from Valladolid; we visited it shortly after our exploring Chichén Itzá. Yaxuna was built in 700 B.C. and the Mayans believe it to be the first city where the Mayan priests gathered to perform their rituals to their gods such as Xoc. 9,000 people once lived in this community where 776 structures have been discovered over time.
Las rituales antiguas de los mayas
The most admirable part of the Mayan community was the deep spiritual connection that was prevalent in the ceremonies and rituals. We were first exposed to the common Mayan ritual, juego de pelota. Before entering the sacred arena, we were purified with incense and the priest recited a blessing over us. Juego de pelota was a game often played for hours on end. Each player used their hips to attempt to hit a large rubber ball into the rings positioned overhead in the arena. The men at Yaxuna were adorned in traditional body painting and reenacted a portion of this game.
Dando gracias a los dioses
Next we observed a ceremony that gave thanks to the gods of the earth. We had the chance to share in the drinking of a traditional Mayan drink, Saka, that was prepared with corn and honey and blessed before the gods before we partook of it.
Las danzas tradicionales
The photos above depict portions of the traditional Mayan dances that were performed to bring honor the gods of the earth. Feel free to watch a portion of the dance ritual followed by an explanation of this ritual (in Spanish).
Las ruinas
As previously stated, there are 776 structures that are believed to be at the Yaxuna archeological site. Many of the ruins have yet to be uncovered from the forests that surround them. We explored many of the ruins that have been uncovered and most notably the Sacbe, meaning “white path.” This path aligns with the stones in the image below, and it is believed that on the 20th of march each year, the moon will align with the center stone. This signifies the beginning of the planting season and the rituals such as those mentioned above will begin in order to thank the gods for the harvest to come.
Aventuras en la península de Yucatán 